Running in the City of Champions (Iten/Eldoret, Kenya)

One week training camp in Iten/Eldoret (Kenya)

Jambo from Kenya!

It’s been a while since my initial report from Kenya, where I promised to visit Iten—the legendary town where running superstars train. Although work and travel commitments kept me busy, I finally found a perfect gap in my schedule that aligned with my preparation for the Berlin Marathon. Without hesitation, I booked my stay at the training camp (www.hatc-iten.com) and secured flights early in spring.

Summer flew by, and soon the day of departure arrived. Eldoret—the name alone sounds like a magical city from a movie. Every runner knows Eldoret and Iten, the “City of Champions.” The excitement was palpable.

Upon arrival in Eldoret, our driver was already waiting to take us to Iten, about an hour’s drive away. We hit some traffic, but the driver made the journey engaging, pointing out the stadium and track where Eliud Kipchoge trains. We chatted about running, Kenya’s economy, and the agricultural landscape—mainly maize, the key ingredient in Ugali, the staple food of Kenyan runners. Ugali, similar to Italian polenta but white in color, is richer in energy and protein than its European cousin. Though a bit bland on its own, it pairs well with vegetable sauces and is a daily staple across Kenya.

As we approached Iten, we saw dozens of runners—men, women, and even Muzungus (the local term for white people)—creating an incredible atmosphere. We were warmly welcomed at the camp and shown to our room: simple, clean, and equipped with everything we needed. After all, we came to train, not for luxury. 

We met our fellow campmates—runners from around the world. The next morning, the alarm rang at 6:00 AM. Time for the first run. The air was crisp, and the streets were already alive with runners. Having just recovered from a cold, I started slowly, soaking in the sunrise and the vibrant energy. Locals waved and greeted us warmly. Despite the high altitude, I felt great—it was pure joy. 

After a 6 km run, I noticed a group of young athletes lining up. I spoke with one of them and learned they were 1500m track runners, preparing for a 10 km long run that day. Around 30 young girls and boys listened attentively to their coach before setting off.

First impressions? Everyone runs in Iten. From schoolchildren to seasoned athletes, the streets are filled with runners. Even those not currently training boast half marathon times between 65 and 68 minutes. The talent pool is endless. At the recent Nairobi City Half Marathon, the top 20 men finished between 61 and 63 minutes—simply incredible.

In the afternoon, I had a session with the physiotherapist. I’ve been dealing with right hip issues for several months. After a thorough mobility assessment and massage, the good news came: nothing serious. With consistent exercises and muscle strengthening, the pain should disappear. Relieved, I committed to the rehab plan.

We also got to know our neighbors—Monika and Artur from Poland. Monika is the Polish marathon champion and bronze medalist from the 2022 European Championships in Munich. Artur, her coach and pacemaker, trains several Polish athletes. Their daily routine includes a “short” 15–18 km run, gym sessions, lunch, rest, and another workout in the afternoon. On Saturdays, the entire town joins in for a 40 km long run. Artur says, “After that, you’re kaputt”—a German word meaning completely exhausted.

Watching the athletes, I realized the training itself isn’t drastically different from ours. What sets them apart is the intensity and volume—160 to 220 km per week. Of course, the altitude helps, and the people here seem born to run.

Time flew by. Each day was filled with runs, gym workouts, massages, and physiotherapy. Before we knew it, it was time to say goodbye. We headed back to Eldoret and flew to Nairobi.

The experience was unforgettable. It all went by too fast, and I still can’t believe what we lived through. We’ll definitely return next year.

Now, it’s time to focus on Berlin. I’m not fully prepared, but I’m counting on the Kenyan altitude effect to carry me through. It will be my 22nd Berlin Marathon—and I’m determined to finish it.

Wish you always fast legs